Sailing Nakamal

Colima Tour

On Tuesday 2 May a group of six cruisers went with Ray from “The Only Tours in Melaque” on a Colima Tour. This was an all day event – from 7:15 am to 7:30 pm.

Ray holds dual citizenship, Canada and Mexico. He has lived in this area for twenty years continuously and is full of fun little factoids about the area. His wife Eva is from Melaque.

We made our way towards Colima City (so called because it’s in the state of Colima. Just like New York!), passing the environs of Manzanilla through an agricultural area. In no particular order, on the two-hour trip we were able to see the following (NOTE –  a lot of these were “drive-by” sightings so some photos have been borrowed from various internet sources):

  • A stunning sunrise – in Mexico they prep the fields by burning off the leftovers of the old crops which makes a lot of smoke which in turn makes for some really colorful sunrises and sunsets. You learn to take the good (color! Lots of fresh fruit!) with the bad (itchy eyes and runny nose.)
  • Fields of bananas, pineapple, papaya, coconuts and dozens of roadside fruit stands

    OnTheWayBananas

    The banana bunches are wrapped in paper and / or plastic – paper to help them ripen, the plastic for protection from birds.

OnTheWayShippingDocks

The cranes for unloading cargo ships in Manzanillo.

OnTheWaySalt

Sea Salt fields

OnTheWayCocoProducts

A plant for processing coconuts into all the things we love (can you say pina colada?)

OnTheWayCocoHusks

But….it creates a lot of waste!

OnTheWayBricks

But…the waste is used to make bricks! The new bricks are stacked up like so, the coco husks piled in the center and burned to cure the bricks.

OnTheWayBathroom

One of the most awesome gas station bathrooms I’ve ever seen. The couch is in the area with the baby-changing table so momma can relax a little too.

Once in Colima we headed to the outdoor café at the Best Western for breakfast – they purchased an existing hotel and added to their chain. It’s right across from a small plaza and the Basilica Menor (Minor Basilica in the Catholic Church system) and Palacio de Gobierno (Governor’s Palace – the place where government business like new citizenship gets done). Followed by an hour or so of time on your own. The area has a couple museums and the streets are lined with typical big city shops. Again, in no particular order:

ColimaStreetMusician

One of the street musicians who serenaded us at breakfast. Click here for video.

  • Breakfast with the best cup of coffee I’ve had in eons. I’m still dreaming of that coffee. Instant Nescafe (“No es café” – it is not coffee) is just not the same, matter how I dress it up.
ColimaMuralVideo

Awesome mural in the governor’s palace – click here for a 360 view. This still shot represents the struggle between modern man and the old ways.

  • John looked for a beer and an ice cream. I took some time in a fabric store and bought some replacement material for our bug screens (one thing scratched off my “To Do When We Get Back to La Cruz” list.)
ColimaPark

I love the parks in Mexico.

ColimaBasilica

The Basilica as seen from the park. The governor’s palace is right next door – as in, no separation of church and state!

ColimaRandomShop

Seen in one of the chotsky shops. “Miel de Amor” means “Love Honey”. The pictures on the box leave you no doubt as to their purpose.

We left Colima wishing we had more time, and made our way to La Hacienda de Nogueras, currently a museum to the Spanish hacienda era and also to the art of Alejandro Rangel Hidalgo. This was clearly the centerpiece of the day’s tour; we were here longer than any other stop.

Senor Alejandro was quite the renaissance man – not only did he create some fabulous art, he also designed furniture and blown glass with his visions rendered to life by craftsmen. In the 1950’s he did a series of angels for UNICEF Christmas cards that were very popular. Operating on the theory that each culture should have angels and a Baby Jesus that they can identify with, the series includes figures that are Japanese, African, Native American, etc.

For me, the highlight of the tour was the display of clay statues, found around the property and dated as 1500 to 2500 years old. There were a few different displays including one in a temperature and light controlled room. This room was designed by Sr. Rangel three years before he died in 2000. Check out the video below:

HaciendaStatueVideo

The lighting is meant to make you feel like you’re in a kiln. The music is what historians think might have been played on instruments of the time. Click here for the video.

HaciendaStatues1

Dogs were important in this culture. One particular breed they revered, fed them corn to fatten them up, then killed and ate them.

HaciendaStatues2

Dancing dogs – Colima City has a large replica of this in one of their roundabouts.

HaciendaStatuesOutside

In a room outside, a display set up for the blind to feel the shapes.

All my life I’ve interpreted the word “hacienda” to mean a big ol’ ranch house. It actually means the whole ranch which could be a small village. Ray describes it as a feudal system, with the owners living in the big house, the craftsmen and foremen provided with a house in the village square (see video), a factory, all the lands, and the common laborers living elsewhere. Out of sight of the big house, no doubt.

HaciendaChapel

The chapel at the hacienda. Immediately to the right is the building used as an art studio, and then the big house. To the left is the village green with housing for the privileged workers.

HaciendaFurniture

Glass and furniture designed by Sr. Rangel, created by craftsmen. All artwork by Sr. Rangel.

HaciendaFurniture2

More furniture

HaciendaKitchen1

Some of the tools and a table top cooking device used by hacienda cooks.

HaciendaKitchen2

Items hung from the ceiling to keep crawly bugs (ants) away. The half round over the top rope is to keep other crawly things (geckos) from making their way to the food stored there.

HaciendaKitchen3

The dome on the floor was filled with molasses, which slowly ran out and left sugar behind. The lava rock container on the wood support was filled with water which dripped out the bottom, filtered and ready to consume.

HaciendaFactory

The hacienda factory – the door is from an outside corridor of the big house. I guess so the owners didn’t have a long commute to work.

HaciendaGarden

Overlooking the gardens.

Then it was off to see the volcano which was supposed to be the real reason we did this tour. It was almost a side note with everything else we saw. The group was given the option of bypassing it and visiting a coffee plantation instead. We decided on volcano. On the way passed through the “Zona Magica” (Magic Zone) which is a little stretch of highway that is an optical illusion. Something about the lay of the roadbed and the surrounding scenery makes appear that you are going downhill but you are really going uphill. Ray pulled over to the lateral road, stopped the van, made sure we all noticed that it looked like we going downhill. Then he released the brake and we rolled backwards. Magic!

OnTheWayCaneTruck

We saw several trucks loaded with sugar cane making their way down from the fields.

We continued went to the volcano lookout point for a few pictures and headed off to Comala.  Lest you forget, our life centers around eating and drinking, so Comala was a dream stop for us.

 

Volcano1

The volcano as we saw it. The peak to the right is the active volcano Volcan de Fuego (fire). Behind and to the left is the extinct Volcan de Nevada (snow)

Volcano

The volcano as we hoped to see it. Fuego has erupted as recently as January of this year, spewing smoke and ash. This was actually a painting in a hotel lobby in Colima City.

OnTheWayLavaRock

On the way down from the volcano we passed a place where men were hacking stuff out of the lava rock. You know those black bowls with short legs that you get your guacamole served in? Here’s how the authentic ones are made.

Comala is a “Pueblo Magico”, or Magic Town. Towns can apply for the Pueblo Magico program and if accepted, receive a grant to spruce things up to bring business to the town. Comala is known for having all the buildings painted white with red tile roofs, and also for ponche (PONE-chay).ComalaSign

Ponche is a flavored beverage made with sugar cane alcohol. It’s available in about every other shop. The one shop we had time for after lunch (which started at 4:15 pm in true Mexican style) had 15 or so different flavors – we bought two for a grand total of 145 pesos ($7-8).

 

Lunch was at a “botanera”. In Spanish, “botana” (bow-TAHN-ah) means snack. The deal at a bontanera is you order what seem to be over-priced beverages (a beer was 50 pesos, about $2.75), usual prices are half that. But as long as you are ordering drinks, they bring you places of. After eating our fill of 6-7 different kinds of little tacos, quesadillas, flautas and vegetable chunks, the total bill for lunch for John and I was 200 pesos – $10-11.

Botanera2

We only needed the menu to see what beers they have.

Botanera1

Tasty and filling.

ComalaStreet

All the buildings are white with red tiled roofs. Very traditional.

ComalaPonche2

It was hard to pick just one. So we didn’t (cranberry with red wine and macadamia nut).

We left Comala wishing we had more time there, but with a 2 hour ride back to Barra we needed to hit the road.

All in all, it was a GREAT trip, and even though the centerpiece stop (volcano) was less than expected, the tour itself was a terrific overview and introduction to this area. If you are ever in Barra, I can recommend this day trip with Ray. Discuss with him the amount of time you want in each place – he has a routine and but I think he would happy to shorten the Comila or hacienda stops if you wanted more time in Comala, or if you wanted to add the coffee plantation.

(Note: Because there were six of us starting from the marina, we were able to make special arrangements to meet Ray for the pickup – be sure to discuss with him beforehand if you need to do the same.)

 

 

Advertisements
This entry was published on May 9, 2017 at 9:45 pm and is filed under Mexico. Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post.

One thought on “Colima Tour

  1. Daren & Duffy on said:

    Elinore & John,
    We’ve enjoyed reading your adventures over the past year & half!
    Would love to discuss what it takes financially to live aboard a boat.
    Duffy & I finally got Genesis moved out to Camp Pendleton (Oceanside) & will attempt to get out and spend long weekends on her over the next year.
    I can’t go whole-in cruising for a living till I retire…but am certainly wanting to move that direction. So, till then, we live the cruising life vicariously thru you.
    Thanks for keeping this going for all of us out here dreaming!
    Enjoy Life you two! Daren & Duffy

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: